Park Boots Unisex

A shell boot has no lining inside. An ordinary boot with a membrane or leather lining can keep water out for a while, but once it gets wet, it takes a long time to dry out.

A shell boot has a cellular rubber bottom section, which makes them completely waterproof at the base. As long as you take care of the leather, it will remain waterproof for many, many years.

As there is no lining or other material to absorb water, shell boots are extremely quick-drying, allowing you to wade with them.

For example: Jaure II Ms Lt High and Mira II Ws lt High

Read more here!

A hiking boot should sit comfortably on your foot when wearing double socks. It should feel airy at the front, but with a good fit in the heel and it shouldn’t be loose when you walk.

Ideally, you should have about 20 mm between your toes and the front edge of the boot.

It is important that they feel comfortable from the start, as only the leather will mold itself to your foot.

View the size guides here. Watch this video here.

The last is the form around which the cellular rubber bottom section of the boot is molded, and it is this that determines the shape of the boot.

Basically, when we talk about lasts, we are talking about the shape of the footbed – there are:

• narrow lasts
• wide lasts
• lasts with lots of space in the toe area
• lasts that are higher or lower
• ...etc.

We have different lasts because our feet are different, and we want there to be a last that suits your particular foot.

Read more about our lasts and which one to choose here.

Example Wide: Jaure II Ms Lt High Wide and Mira II Ws Lt High Wide

Example Medium/Normal: Professional II High

This will depend entirely on personal preferences and your intended area of use.

All our shell boots have the same function:

• good in technical terrain
• good durability
• keep wetness out
• easy to repair
• quick-drying
• suitable for many different uses, etc.

There is quite a big difference between the feel of a single-layer boot, which becomes soft and supple at the top, and a three-layer boot that is more stable and provides support at the ankle.

This is a completely personal choice – go for what you like or think you might need.

Single-layer boots: Vandra II High, Forest II

Three-layer boots: Jaure II Ms Light High Wide, Mira II Ws High Lite Wide, Professional II High etc.

We’ve made a film to help you choose your boots.

Read more here.

Measure your feet, add 20 mm and choose the right size from our size chart.

Sometimes you can go up or down a size from what the table says without it being too small or too big – the most important thing is that the shoe fits comfortably and that the heel doesn’t slip!

The reason why we want the extra 20 mm is partly that feet swell after a few hours of hiking and partly that feet slide forward a little when you walk downhill.

With 20 mm of space, you don’t risk bashing your toes and getting black nails on your hike.

Example: your foot is 253 mm: 253 + 20 = 273, which is size 40.

View our size guide here.

Single-layer boots are shell boots that have a layer of leather in the shaft, with no midlayer or lining.

This gives a flexible shaft that molds itself to the foot and leg. Under and around the foot there is a durable and waterproof cellular rubber bottom section.

Single-layer boots are not as stable as 3-layer boots, but they often last a little longer due to the simple construction.

They also allow for freer movement between the leg and the foot.

Example: Vandra II High, Forest II

Read more here.

3-layer shell boots are more technical than single-layer boots.

The shaft comprises two layers of leather and an Ariaprene midlayer.

The bottom section consists of a cellular rubber-like material and a layer of microfiber inside.

Our three-layer boots are also available in a lightweight version, where we have tried to optimize the weight of every detail to get a really light boot, but without losing any stability, comfort or functionality.

Example: Jaure II Ms High, Mira II Ws High


Read more here.

Wax the leather regularly. Our Leather Wax is always a good choice.

If you have single-layer boots, you can use Leather Grease instead of (or along with) the wax.


Is the leather Nubuck? You can spray them (with Toko Eco Shoe Prof & Care) if you want to keep the finish as it is, but you will have to spray frequently.

Wax is better in the long run, but the surface will be shinier and darker.

The cellular rubber section can be washed with water and mild soap, but no other products should be used.

Wear the boots frequently and store them in a cool place if you are not going to use them for a while.


Did you know that we can repair your Lundhags boot if it breaks or wears out?

Read more about boot care here.

Our skilled shoemakers in Järpen have all worked with our boots for a long time and we can repair most things.

Common repairs include replacing soles, repairing and improving seams, reshaping the cellular rubber, replacing the cellular rubber bottom section, etc.

As a rule, it is better to repair at an early stage – sort out the repair as soon as you notice that the seam has started to come apart, etc.

Taking care of your boots will extend their life!

Read more about repairs here.

You can hike for a long time in a pair of Lundhags boots. We have many friends of Lundhags who are still wearing boots that are several decades old.

Use them often, wax the leather regularly and repair them when they break, and they’ll be with you for many, many years to come.

Read more about repairs here.